Juliet Jacob Ochenje
Visiting Ette in Kogi state for Christmas was a dream come true for me. The excitement of witnessing the colourful traditional wedding ceremony of the Ette people had been building up in my mind for weeks. As I packed my luggage on the morning of December 24, 2023, I couldn’t contain my anticipation.
Ette, located on the boundary between Kogi and Enugu states in eastern Nigeria, holds a special place in my heart. Growing up, I often heard stories about the spirit of marriage and justice called Aleku, believed to be powerful among the Ette, Igbo, and Idoma communities. These stories warned of the consequences of extramarital relationships and the importance of confession to prevent harm to loved ones.
The tales of Aleku and the vibrant culture of the Igala and Igbo people formed the backdrop of my journey home. I woke up at 5 am, eager to catch the first bus from Zuba motor park to Ette.
Taking a tricycle popularly called Keke to Dutse Alhaji junction and then a vehicle to Zuba Park, I navigated the bustling streets alive with early morning activity. At the park, the hustle and bustle of loading luggage and haggling added to the spectacle.
However, I encountered an unexpected surprise when I was asked to pay for my luggage, despite its adherence to the travelling regulations. Reluctantly, I paid the sum of 3,000 Naira and boarded the bus. The journey to Ette was smooth and uneventful, thanks to the competent and calm driver. Upon my arrival, my junior sister welcomed me with open arms, and the joy of reuniting with family after a year brought tears to my eyes.
The welcoming ceremony at my family house was a grand affair, with my parents and extended relatives present. Everyone showered me with compliments, exclaiming how beautiful I had become since moving to Abuja. It was heartwarming to be surrounded by loved ones, reliving fond memories and sharing stories of our past.
The next morning, I awoke to the enchanting sounds of cultural masquerades dancing in vibrant costumes outside my father’s compound.
Excitedly, I joined the festivities, dancing alongside the masquerades. Afterwards, I visited relatives and friends who had returned for the holidays. We spent the day chatting, enjoying drinks, and savoring delicious food.
Back at the family compound, I encountered a group of adorable children with bright smiles on their faces.
In our village, it is customary for children to visit relatives and ask for “Christmas nlom,” a Christmas gift usually in the form of cash. Having been on the receiving end of this tradition when I was younger, I happily showered the children with hugs, and money, and took pictures with them, leaving them with wide grins of gratitude.
Indoors, I was treated to a mouthwatering goat meat pepper soup with white rice by my mother. My cousins then appeared with gallons of fresh palm wine, and together we laughed and relished the drinks. We refreshed ourselves, dressed up, and ventured out into the village to continue the festivities.
Although I didn’t witness many traditional marriages during my stay, the village buzzed with the energy of masquerades and dances.
My departure, however, was bittersweet. Leaving Ette and returning to my work as a reporter in Abuja was difficult, but the memories of the yuletide celebration and the re-enactment of recent marriages performed by my mother and sister were etched in my mind.
Ette, with its rich cultural heritage and warm hospitality, proved to be the perfect destination for a Christmas getaway.
From the captivating traditional wedding ceremonies to the lively masquerades and the joyous reunions with family and friends, every moment spent in Ette was a testament to the beauty and vibrancy of Nigerian traditions. It’s a journey I will cherish for a lifetime.
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